Retinol And Rosacea, Explained By The Experts (2025)

If you’ve ventured into a high-street skincare aisle in the past few years, you’ll be well versed in the popularity of retinol (or retinoids, to use the umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives). Apart from a couple of notable detractors (Dr. Barbara Sturm isn’t keen), pretty much every skincare brand on the planet has jumped on the retinoid bandwagon, slapping the word across bottles that promise to firm, resurface, clarify and plump.

If you believe everything you read, you’ve likely been led to consider retinoids as the cure-all solution for any and every skin woe. Are you ageing? Get a retinoid on and reverse the clock. Breakouts? Good old vitamin A will resurface that clogged complexion. Pigmentation? Yep. But sensitivities? Well, hang on a minute.

The difficulties that come with using a retinoid are well documented: this active ingredient may be effective, but the end result is rarely achieved without a little struggle. Redness, heightened sensitivity and even the dreaded ‘tretinoin purge’ are all potential side-effects, should you go too hard or too fast with your product. Despite this, there are plenty of brands out there that will insist that retinoids (specifically, their retinoids) are suitable for the most delicate of skins: even those prone to rosacea. All you need to do is use your product no more than once monthly, under the light of the full moon, remembering to apply it as the filling in a ‘moisture sandwich’ so the half-kilo of cream you’ve applied will stop the active from actually penetrating, and slather on a barrier-building ointment for the rest of the week to ensure you don’t end up with a complexion so angry, it repays you with a bout of perioral dermatitis.

So, can rosacea and retinol ever work beneficially together – and more importantly, should they? If you’re currently wondering whether your sensitive skincare routine should expand to include vitamin A, the first thing to consider is why you feel compelled to reach for the retinol. If the answer is simply because, well, retinoids are everywhere, move swiftly on: the fact that everyone you know is using a certain ingredient isn't a reason to invest yourself. But if your rosacea-prone skin is showing signs of pigmentation, acne or feathery surface lines, it might be worth trying to make retinol work for you.

Firstly, don’t believe everything you read in the beauty aisles: retinol is not the best ingredient for treating rosacea itself. If you’re still trying to get your flare-ups under control, turn to an anti-inflammatory ingredient such as azelaic acid instead. (Even better, place your trust in a doctor-backed brand such as Klira or Dr. Sam’s.

Once you’ve got your rosacea under control, a retinol can be beneficial, as skin expert Dr. Sam Bunting explains. 'In rosacea that’s coasting along in the maintenance phase, a retinoid can be a really helpful addition,' she says. 'Rosacea is prevalent in fair-skinned, light-eyed individuals: a group at risk of sun damage and the associated damage to collagen that ensues. So the value of a retinoid in helping rebuild the dermal matrix is potentially huge.'

'Retinols may also help reduce abnormal vessel formation,' adds Dr. Bunting, which plays a role in those red, spidery veins people with rosacea can experience. 'As always, proceed carefully - consider trialling a non-prescription retinoid to test the waters. A granactive retinoid is a great one to try,' she adds.

So, how exactly do you commit to a retinoid product when your skin is prone to tantrums? As Dr. Bunting explains, the fact that rosacea-prone skin has a lower threshold for dryness and irritation means the retinol side effects can often be magnified. 'This is why starting at the low end of the potency ladder is key,' she says.

When using a retinoid on rosacea-prone skin, it’s crucial you play by the rules: start slowly, working up to application every other night, and always bookend your product with a gentle cleanser (a non-foaming milk or gel is ideal) and replenishing, simple moisturiser (no need to spend the big bucks: Cerave and La Roche-Posay are both perfect).

If you’re ready to introduce your rosacea-prone skin to a retinoid, I know just the thing. Here, see five retinoid treatments I've happily used on my own rosacea-prone complexion.

The best retinol for rosacea-prone skin

A brilliant all-round serum for those trying to manage rosacea, Dr. Sam's own serum contains a granactive retinoid alongside azelaic acid (the main event for rosacea flare-ups) and barrier-reinforcing niacinamide. It's great for treating everything from breakouts to pigmentation: a true one-and-done wonder.

Steeped in barrier-building squalane and jojoba oil, this gentle retinol serum is ideal for first-timers, and also comes in a small 10ml trial size so you can safely test the waters.

No-nonsense skincare influencer Caroline Hirons has brought her signature straight-talking MO to her debut product line, Skin Rocks. She has two retinoid serums: No 1 is formulated for total beginners, featuring a low-strength, fragrance-free formula that sensitive souls should get on just fine with.

Specifically created for reactive skin, Byoma's retinoid oil uses a clever form of the active, hydroxypinacolone retinoate, which doesn't need converting within the skin before setting to work. It's prized for delivering results on sensitive skin types, and comes bolstered here by a host of calming humectants and lipids.