Patches are sewn on jeans not just for repairing holes; they are also top-class embellishments. They symbolize creativity, personal expression, and a bit of rebellion. Patches give you the power to customize your normal jeans into something you only have – you can display your personality for all to see on your jeans. Isn’t it nice and enough reason to add a patch to your jeans today, just as I do?
There are some very cool patches out there to buy or you can easily make them. There are two types of patches – the sew-on kind and the iron on patches. You can either hand sew the patch, machine sew it, or just glue it.
If you are a beginner in sewing and like these patched jeans which are very popular in alternative fashion genre, you may want to keep some tips in mind when sewing these patches. They should look decent, right?
Different stitching methods for sewing the patch
Sew the patches with whip stitches
You will preferebly have to darn any hole before sewing the patch over it.
Use a thick thread and a thick needle with a big enough eye for the thread to pass through it. Denim is thick and small needles would not go through easily.
Do not forget to pin the patch to the denim.
Whip stitches are a series of parallel stitches made along the patches. When made with thick jeans thread, it forms a decorative edge stitching with a rustic charm over the patch. It makes a thick store bought patch a part of the jeans fabric. I love it.
To make those stitches, just make straight stitches catching the jeans and the patch edge, in an even manner.
Sew the patches with blanket stitches
Blanket stitches are similar hand stitches that are used for attaching patches- they form a vidible attractive border around the patch.
Like the whip stitched patches, the blanket stitches give a very hand made aesthetic to your jeans. Very alternative-fashion DIY vibe.
Pin the patch in place and slowly make blanket stitches along the edge. You can make the stitches to the inside of the patch or to the outside.
Sew the patches with invisible stitches
When you want the patches to be the star and not the stitches made around them, you can use applique stitches to attach them – this can make the patch stand out and not the stitches.
Stitches that disappear, also known as ladder stitches or slip stitches, are used when you want the thread to be hidden.
Here, the applique stitch catches the patch from under it
and the jeans edge is also caught with the needle just under the edge of the patch.
Sew the patches with sewing machine stitches.
This is the most easy way to sew the patches – but only so long as you can reach the area to patch. In extreme cases, you may have to unpick the seam to open up the jeans to sew the patches on the sewing machine.
I would suggest using fusible web to stabilize the patch before sewing – especially if the hole is big.
You can sew the patches with straight stitches leaving the edges to fray or folded to the inside.
Or make zig zag stitches
Sew the patch from the back with decorative stitches
This method is called reverse applique. You can use any decorative hand embroidery stitches over the patching but sashiko embroidery looks special when used over jeans to sew patches. Japanese have a special embroidery technique called Boro for patching – it is actually just making running stitches over the patches but the result looks very nice.
Make grid markings on the area to make the decorative stitching.
Start making small running stitches along the marking.
Here the patch fabric is kept on the back and sashiko stitches are made over it.
Do finish the edges of the fabric before using the fabric at the back.
Related post: How to mend jeans with holes
Mistakes to look out for when choosing and sewing your jeans patch
Start by selecting an old pair of jeans that still fits and the patch.
Try to choose a patch of the same weight
Do not make the mistake of choosing patches that are either too stiff or too thin compared to the denim you are patching. The stiff patch may end up looking odd and sticking out.
And, if you are addding the patch over a torn area a too thin patch can further tearing around the patched area when you wash it.
The solution I can suggest is to slect a patch material that closely matches the weight and stretch of your jeans. For denim, a sturdy, similarly weighted fabric works best. If your jeans are stretchy, consider a patch with a bit of elastane. If you are going to use thin cotton, consider using two layers of it.
Do not ignore the grain lines of fabric patch
Not aligning the patch’s grain line with that of the jeans can result in a patch that pulls awkwardly when you wear it. It is so much more better for fit and comfort. This is more so when you are sewing the patch over a hole.
This means matching the vertical and horizontal threads of the patch material with those in the jeans.
If there is a hole, leaving it as it is
It is better to repair the jeans hole first before adding a patch over it. Or atleast keep another fabric underneath to make the fabric stable. Trim any frayed edges around the hole and apply fray check. Do some easy darning to stabilize the hole. If it is a large hole, you can add a fabric underneath.
Use only fabric glue.
Nothing else other than fabric glue should be used on fabric. Using anyother weak or inappropriate adhesive can cause the patch to peel off after a few washes. Similarly, some adhesives might be too harsh and damage your jeans fabric.
For iron-on patches, follow the application instructions carefully to ensure a strong bond.
Weak Stitching Technique
Weak stitching or choosing the wrong type of thread can result in the patch not being neatly and adequately attached.
If you are considering opening the leg seams to attach the patches, consider the fact that your sewing machine may not be up to it. When you open the side seam along the leg of the jeans, you will have to sew it back up after the patch is applied – this is a little difficult with delicate home sewing machines.
If you want invisible stitching of the patch, use a thread that will not make the repair stand out too much. I would advice to use a strong, durable thread that matches the color of your jeans for a subtle repair. You can use a jeans thread like Gütermann creativ Jeans Thread – it is available in shades of jeans and is very strong (highly recommended). It is a poly-cotton thread that is regularly used for darning on jeans – you can use it to sew the patches. It can be used for machine sewing as well as hand sewing.
If you’re hand-stitching, employ a sashiko or similar technique that ensures the patch is securely attached while adding a decorative touch. Machine stitches should be small and dense for durability.
If you are hand stitching, do not take too much thread on your needle. This is to prevent knots and the resultant frustration. The denim fabric is thick so use an appropriatelt thick needle that will easily go through the thick layers of fabrics.
Cannot emphasize more on making a secure final knot- you do not want the patch to come off after all the hardwork.
And not stabilizing the torn area with another thin fabric on the back or with fusible web is another big mistake leading to weak patched area.
Getting the Patch Placement wrong
You can place the patches closely together to maximize the number of bands or interests you can showcase on your garment. This placement can be used as your own personal expression through fashion.
Not using the free-arm
If the patches are to be attached to the legs, you can remove the cover over the free-arm attachment of your sewing machine and slide the jeans leg over the free arm – You can then move the leg over the machine as you please to sew the patch.legs you can remove the cover over the free-arm attachment of your sewing machine, slide the jeans leg over the free arm – You can then move the leg over the machine as you please to sew the patch.
Related posts: How to sew a patch over a hole; Tutorial to make DIY patches ; Ironing sticker patches on clothes. ; Make patchwork jeans
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